I quite like golden beets, they don't stain the fingers and everything else like their red cousins.

Golden Beet Soup with Creme Fraiche

The color of this soup is fabulous -- a brilliant yellow-gold. Look for freshly harvested, sweet, small beets; a farmers' market is your best bet. Old, woody beets will make a bitter, earthy-tasting soup. A pinch of ground fennel seed is a nice addition.

INGREDIENTS:

1 1/2 pounds golden beets (weight without greens)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup thinly sliced leeks, white and pale green part only

1 clove garlic, minced

Approximately 5 1/2 cups chicken or vegetable stock

1/3 to 1/2 cup creme fraiche

Salt and freshly ground white pepper

Thinly sliced chives for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS:

Preheat oven to 400º. Put the beets in a baking dish with about 1/4 inch of water. Cover and bake until tender when pierced, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Cool, then peel, taking care to remove every trace of peel or the soup may have an earthy taste. Quarter beets.

Melt the butter in a large saucepan over moderate heat. Add the leeks and saute until softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic and saute briefly to release its fragrance, then add the beets and 4 cups of the stock. Bring to a simmer. Cover and adjust heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook 10 minutes to blend the flavors.

Puree the soup in batches in a blender. Return to a clean saucepan and reheat. Thin to desired consistency with additional stock. Whisk in creme fraiche to taste. Season with salt and pepper. Divide soup among warm bowls, garnishing each portion with chives.

Serves 6